France for Freebooters
An Independent Traveler's View of
France and its History
by Mike Kingdom-Hockings
The Oysters of Brittany - how they are grown and how to recognise themby Mike K-H Oysters
are like wine. They look and taste different depending on breed,
environment and method of cultivation.
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To the Bretons, an oyster is not just an oyster.Each of the oyster-farming areas has its own characteristics and farming techniques, and oyster-lovers can easily identify their products. Starting at the northeast end and working along the coast, let's sample a dozen different delicacies: La CancaleRaised in the fierce tidal currents around Mont St Michel, those grown in the sea have round, toothed shells while those grown on the foreshore are smooth-shelled. The 'robe' (mantle) is pale beige and the firm, supple flesh has a strong scent of iodine, with a hint of nuts. La PaimpolRaised in deep waters of the Bay of Paimpol, with its tidal currents, the round shell of these oysters holds a crisp flesh tasting of salt and iodine. La Rivière de TréguierThis estuary is particularly rich in the plankton which oysters feed on. The quantity of flesh in these oysters varies according to how they were grown. The round, regular shell encloses a firm flesh with a taste of iodine. La Morlaix-PenzéCultivation in open beds with frequent harrowing gives these oysters a round shell. Flesh is soft with subtle hints of seaweed and hazel nut. La Nacre des AbersAber is a Celtic word for a steep-sided valley invaded by the sea (a bit like a fjord, but on a smaller scale, also seen in Welsh and Scottish names such as Aberystwith and Abernethy), also referred to by the Spanish name of 'rias'. These oysters come from l'Aber Wrac'h and l'Aber Benoît, the westernmost beds in France, teeming with plankton. Voluptuous creatures reeking of iodine and hazel nuts. La Rade de BrestGrown in the extraordinary natural harbour of Brest, on 'tables' or in 'pockets', these oysters develop a frilly shell. Their flavour is strong, well-balanced, and similar to that of 'flat' oysters. L'Aven-BelonBetween Quimper and Lorient, the rias of Aven, Belon and Merrien are 'affinage' sites, where mature oysters develop a pale, clear flesh of delicate texture and a nutty, slightly sweet taste. La Ria d'EtelMariners know this ria for its fierce currents and the bar across its mouth. The oysters have smooth, irregular shells and the flesh has a distinctly marine flavour with traces of iodine. La QuiberonProduced in deep water in the Bay of Quiberon and in the St Philibert river, these oysters are firm and fleshy, with a rough shell. Their flavour is complex and varies from subtle hazel nut to a more typical iodine-dominated mix. La Golfe du MorbihanAlthough Morbihan is right next door to Quiberon, its ecosystem is quite different. This inland sea with 365 islands, beloved of cruising yachtsmen, gives its oysters a rough shell and a translucent yellow or pale green flesh with subtle seaweed flavours. La PenerfThe ria of Penerf is home to oysters which are round or elongated, depending on how they are grown, with brown shells and very white inner faces enclosing abundant, firm flesh with an aroma of iodine and seaweed. La CroisicaiseThe southernmost Breton oyster is grown in the channels known as the Grand Traict and the Petit Traict, and has a characteristic pale yellow or beige shell. Its flesh is supple and firm, but not crisp, and it has complex flavours of iodine and hazel nut. 'Actual Contents May Vary...'As with wines, characteristics vary within a single type, accordng to differences in cultivation, year, and even season. Don't expect the bland sensations of taste-and texture-controlled HoJo's Clam Chowder. Enjoy the natural variations. Have fun. |
