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The
Costa Brava is the beautiful Spanish Mediterreanean coastline that
stretches south from the French border to Barcelona. From Toulouse,
the A61 and A9 autoroutes, continuing into Spain, make it an easy
3 hour destination.(Speak for yourself, Kim. Last time I crossed
from France to Spain, in a battered old VW Kombi, at the other end
of the Pyrennees, the French douaniers decided to strip the lining
off the inside to see if I was carrying drugs. Since I was still
shaking from trying to avoid being flattened by huge trucks as I
hurtled down into Hendaye, I was happy to help him while Phyll walked
the dogs.)
First of all , this is a very popular and crowded European summer
destination, so plan accordingly.
Once you cross the border into Spain, continue south on the autoroute
until the town of Figures. Take the exit west towards Roses/Cadaqués.
You'll drive through marshy areas, a bit similar to that of the
Camargue area in southern France. Roses is a very touristy boat
harbor town. Continue on towards Cadaqués. You will begin climbing
into the high hills. The road becomes very steep and windy.. Caution
to those prone to car sickness! It is a beautiful drive..just take
it slow!
Unfortunatly, when we visited this town, it was raining. It has
cute small cobbelstone streets, and those who fancy flowers will
be in for a treat. The buildings and homes are smothered in summer
baskets and trellises galore.
The waterfront has its usual tourist traps and restaurants to suit
all tastes. But we found it a bit too touristy, even still if the
rain dampened our spirits a bit.
Once you leave Cadaqués, you continue south towards L'Escala. Just
before you come into L'Escala, the Office of Tourism is a must stop.
The girls speak all languages, and are very helpful.
L'Escala itself has its fill of waterfront tourist places, hotels,
and the like. We chose to stay just south outside the town in the
burg of Montgo. Our hotel, "Can Miquel", sat at the dead end of
the street, with the beach within a few yards of our door. We had
a top floor corner room, with sweeping views of the wonderful pool,
and the bay. It is a clean, and very affordable hotel, with very
helpful friendly staff, and I do recommend it.
Montgo is full of beautiful homes, of which many can be rented.
There are 2 very large camping complexes just down the road, also.
There, you can either hook up your own rig, put up your own tent
, or rent a cottage.
It's amazing to see the many Germans who choose this area for their
holiday. I often heard our poor waiters in the hotel struggling
to be tri-lingual in French, English, and German! "Merci, Thanks,
Danke!".
There is a lot of Greek and Roman history here too. The Empùries,
just before you get to L'Escala, is the site of a 3000 year old
Greek and Roman City. A few of the temples have been reconstucted
with the remaining columns, and are quite impressive. You can see
some beautiful, floor mosaics , still very well preserved, and totally
intact.
There is a nice artifacts museum, with a film presentation, popular
with visiting school kids; as was the case when were there. It must've
been "School Day at the Ruins".There were 4 bus loads of them! Anyway,
it is worth the visit.
In fact, you can start your 3000 years of history with a very easy
walking tour from the cute medieval village of Sant Marti. From
there, where you can park your car for 1€, walk through the very
small, cute, 2 street village to the waterfront, just around the
back of the church. You get a beautiful view of the Mediterreanean,
a very long beach for sunning and swimming, and can also see the
remains of a 3000 year old Greek pier.
There is a walking path from there to the main Empùries, Greek/Roman
city site. And the path continues all the way into L'Escala.
The Costa Brava is not only about beautiful beaches, but well worth
it to explore the interior a bit. From L'Escala follow signs to
Torroella de Mongri. You will see the beautiful castle on the top
of the mountian near by. This castle is acccessible only by hiking
up to it. We didn't do it, though there are signs pointing towards
the beginning of the very steep looking climb.
Driving through this town, follow directions to Ullastret. Here
there are 2 very intriguing stops. Just 1 km from this very quiet
medieval village, sits the site of a 3000 year old Iberian village,
still being excavated. There are many curious 'holes' in the ground
that was a grain storage system they used. The area is a very fertile
farm land, and has been used this way thoughout the centuries.
The quiet, medieval village, 1 km away, is a delight to walk around,
sit and have a sandwich at the local café, and take in all marvelous
800 year old stone buildings.
Our next town takes us to Pals. This again, is another medieval
village, but one that shouldn't be passed by. Its church towers
over the village, and one can have a sweeping view of the valley
from there. The streets are lined with flowers galore. Even a few
medieval "street lamps"can be seen. These are metal baskets bolted,
protruding from the upper sides of buildings. In the baskets lay
a pile a wood to burn. Hence, a street light! How ingenious they
were!
OK, this is the Costa Brava, and we're finally going to talk about
beaches! Pals Beach is the largest and longest. From the village
of Pals, you can take either the direction "Platja de Pals (beaches),
or towards Begur/Sa Riera.
If you take the main "Platja" direction, you'll end up at an area
of condominiums and golf courses. You'll get the the beach all right,
but it's not the best spot! Taking the other direction will take
you the the other end of the long Pals beach. When you see the group
of large radio and TV antennas, you'll know that the beach is not
far. Following the signs into Sa Riera, you'll be able to park along
the street by numerous tourist trap shops and cafés or in parking
lots at the beach. The beach is long and there is enough space for
the most crowded of days.
For those who want to "bare it all", the naturist beach is a easy
walk over a stone step path. Just walk to the end of the beach,
and follow the (people), and the stone path over the cliff.
The other beach towns near are Sa Tuna, Mas Pinell, Aiguafreda,
and Tamariu, but we prefered Sa Riera. The roads to each beach town
curve and wind, and split around the hills, and are not always well
marked. We had to double back before we got to Sa Riera!
Back inland, the city of Girona is worth a look. It has a beautiful
cathedral, although it was closed when we were there. Its long white
staircase with statues of the apostles gracing the entrance is gorgeous.
Beautiful, small winding streets and gardens abound in the medieval
corner, and then winding your way back to the parking lot across
the river there is a street mall for the shopping minded with lots
of wonderful ice cream vendors for those hot Costa Brava days !
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