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Hell's Valley and the Wolves - le Parc
à Loups du Gévaudan
Driving south from Clermont-Ferrand,
as you leave the Auvergne and enter Lozère in
northern Languedoc, take exit 37 and continue south along the old N9.
On your left you may glimpse the rocky walls of the Vallée d'Enfer.

You will also see signs to 'Les Loups'. A few Km down the road,
you will see the entrance to the Parc à Loups du Gévaudan.
This is the public face of a wolf sanctuary whose sponsors include
the Brigitte Bardot Foundation. There is also an 85-hectare fenced
wilderness where wolves live in a more or less natural state,
visited only by park staff.
The park includes a museum with
illustrations and tales of the fear in which these animals were held
by most people in days gone by. The museum takes great pains to
debunk these ideas,
giving us the benefit of modern understanding of how these handsome creatures
live and behave. In particular, it points out that in countries like
Italy and Spain wild wolves flourish in sheep-farming country
without being persecuted by shepherds. They solve the problem by
using rather large dogs, whose presence discourages wolves from
seeing the flocks as a primary food supply.
The museum points to the experience of these shepherds:
"A wolf only kills to eat. A pack may occasionally kill
one lamb, but if there is sudden mass destruction of our flocks, the
culprits are always domestic dogs."
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