France for Freebooters

 

An Independent Traveler's View of 

France and its History

 

by Mike Kingdom-Hockings 

Carteret Harbour, Normandy. (c) Keith Kellett




   

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Petite Pululu - a Haute Languedoc hideaway

by Mike Kingdom-Hockings

The original Pululu Farm is now an orphanage. Located between the Zambian Copperbelt town of Ndola and the border of what was then known as Zaire, by the time I became a regular visitor in 1992 it had become a precarious place to live.

 

Hiltrud and Jurgen Tiemann had built it up from raw bush over a period of seventeen years, and they loved it. But now when we walked their two small dogs around the 3km boundary before sunset Jurgen carried an automatic pistol in the waistband of his trousers. It might have made more sense for Hiltrud to carry it: she was the one who shot at competitions in her youth. To explain their caution, they showed me a two year old newspaper photograph of the pair of them, swathed in bandages like the Invisible Man, after a violent burglary.

Now, before locking up for the night, Jurgen would set his protective devices. Two wires, at neck and crotch heights, were connected to the 240 volt mains. A fine wire across the front of the carport was fastened to the trigger of a steel tube loaded with a 12-bore shotgun cartridge, aimed back along it. All windows were already behind razor wire.

The gate of the property was one kilometre from the house. Going home at night, I opened and closed it with my left hand, holding a large knife in my right. Thumb on the blade – strike upwards.

* * *

Petite Pululu is peaceful. Find Lunas, just over the pass between Lodève and Bédarieux, inland from Montpellier. Turn off to pass through Joncels then make a 5km climb to the left along a cracked concrete farm road and descend a little to the hamlet of Valeyrac. Petite Pululu is the last of a group of stone houses on the left, looking down across the valley towards le Pont d’Orb and le Bousquet d’Orb.

Set back from the road, this skilfully renovated stone house includes two self-contained studio flats created from cellars and storerooms. In each, huge undressed stones break through the wall plaster in places, and the spaces between the ancient ceiling beams sweep upwards in shallow barrel vaulting. Shower and toilet are furnished with quality German chinaware. Rustic furniture faces past the lawn and across the valley, through multi-paned french windows.

At this altitude, it can be cool in the morning even in summer. Let the daylight wake you, then slip out in bare feet to feel the loneliness. Let breakfast wait until everything wakes up. Climb up the path to the plateau which forms the kitchen garden, and look away from the valley. Crane your neck towards the top of the ridge which forms the rear boundary of the property. Huge boulder