France for Freebooters
An Independent Traveler's View of
France and its History
by Mike Kingdom-Hockings
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Spice and Ivory - Normandy's Alabaster Coast by Keith Kellett Many people associate France with cycling. Fewer people are aware of
the network of Grandes Randonnées – the long walks that take you over the top
or through the middle of every part of France. In this excerpt from his e-book
Eurocurios, travel writer and photographer Keith Kellett leads you through places which most
tourists miss as they hurtle away from the car ferry dock, heading for Paris,
the Dordogne, or Nice. This layout will differ from the one in the e-book.
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Generally, we in Britain associate white cliffs with the "welcome home" from the famous ones at Dover. But there are also white cliffs on the other side of the English Channel, which give Normandy’s Alabaster Coast its name. The seaside resorts on this spectacular coast are very popular with French holiday-makers. A handful of visitors come from continental Europe, but only a few from Britain. This is surprising, as the area could be reached by car from the ferry ports of Le Havre or Dieppe within an hour. For walkers or cyclists, the GR21 long-distance path leads from Le Havre to Dieppe. A good day along this route would bring a walker to the coast at some of the best cliff formations, near Etretat.
Packed into a little bay between the cliffs, Étretat is an appealing mix of modern naff and old-world kitsch typical of seaside resorts all over the world. Behind the rather functional promenade, you can find quaint half- timbered cafés, and shops selling everything from designer clothing to the kind of stuff you can buy in any seaside town .... except buckets and spades. Étretat has a pebble beach.
The main attraction of Étretat is the often breezy walk along the tops of the falaises, or cliffs at the western end of the promenade. From the path, you have an excellent view of two natural arches and a detached aiguille, or needle, all in dead-bone-white chalk against the blue of the sea and sky.
In addition to the walks and the usual beach pursuits, riding stables and a golf course can be found in or near Étretat. For motorists, the Ivory and Spice Road, taking in several châteaux and manoirs, is one of many tours possible. This route takes its name from the vigorous trade in these commodities carried on by Norman sailors and merchants in bygone times. Dieppe was once noted for ivory carving, and examples of this art can be seen at almost any château or museum you visit in this area.
This was the destination of many of the spices, twenty-seven of which are used in the production of Bénédictine. You can savour the aroma of these herbs and spices at the museum in the Palace, which also holds many paintings and other antiquities. You can inspect the distillery where Bénédictine is made, and taste the end product. But they won’t tell you how they make it, or exactly what goes into it. That’s still a closely-guarded secret! Bénédictine Pamplemousse (great for summer days) 2 parts Bénédictine Serve in a frosted glass. Habits Rouges (great for summer days when you don’t have to drive) 1 part Bénédictine |
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