France for Freebooters

 

An Independent Traveller's View of 

France and its History

 

by Mike Kingdom-Hockings 





   

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Hell's Valley and the Wolves - le Parc à Loups du Gévaudan

Driving south from Clermont-Ferrand, as you leave the Auvergne and enter Lozère in northern Languedoc, take exit 37 and continue south along the old N9. On your left you may glimpse the rocky walls of the Vallée d'Enfer. 

You will also see signs to 'Les Loups'. A few Km down the road, you will see the entrance to the Parc à Loups du Gévaudan.  This is the public face of a wolf sanctuary whose sponsors include the Brigitte Bardot Foundation. There is also an 85-hectare fenced wilderness where wolves live in a more or less natural state, visited only by park staff.

The park includes a museum with illustrations and tales of the fear in which these animals were held by most people in days gone by. The museum takes great pains to debunk these ideas, giving us the benefit of modern understanding of how these handsome creatures live and behave. In particular, it points out that in countries like Italy and Spain wild wolves flourish in sheep-farming country without being persecuted by shepherds. They solve the problem by using rather large dogs, whose presence discourages wolves from seeing the flocks as a primary food supply. 

The museum points to the experience of these shepherds:

"A wolf only kills to eat. A pack may occasionally kill one lamb, but if there is sudden mass destruction of our flocks, the culprits are always domestic dogs."  

 

Click on each picture to enlarge it.
There are only two places where you can look down on the wolves and take photos. Everywhere else, you are on the same level, behind a thick chain link fence.
Each separately-fenced enclosure contains a pack from a different part of the world. All are 'rescues' which would otherwise have been culled for various reasons. 
A warning, aimed at those who have what the Brits would call a 'feeling' for wild animals. The wolves will assume that ANYTHING you poke through the fence and dangle in front of their mouths is food.
Autumn colours and hazy light.
If enough people are interested, I'll get these two scenes printed and sell them as posters. E-mail me
 

All images copyright M Kingdom-Hockings. Please contact me if you would like to use any of these pictures.

 

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The official website. (no English translation, unfortunately)
loupsdugevaudan
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