France for Freebooters

 

An Independent Traveler's View of 

France and its History

 

by Mike Kingdom-Hockings 

Carteret Harbour, Normandy. (c) Keith Kellett




   

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Midi Muddle - Kay and Dave adrift on the Canal du Midi
by Kay MacMahon

It was one of those holidays that didn't exactly run to plan. When we rented a house boat on the Canal du Midi for a week, we imagined sunning ourselves on deck and pottering about on the canal. In the evenings we would stroll to canal-side hostelries to quaff fine wines and scoff gourmet food at rock bottom prices. Yeah, and pigs might fly too.

 

We'd got the smallest type of boat on offer, the "enormously popular" Kingfisher. Well, its popularity was the only enormous thing about it but it was adequate, and really pretty good for its size. It had a good little shower cubicle, a w.c., a double berth, and a table with seating area. It also had a small kitchen area, which was very well equipped with a decent little cooker and fridge - just as well as it turned out.

We went at the very start of the season, in April, in the hope that the weather would be good and the canal uncrowded. It was indeed uncrowded, hence all the hostelries not yet being open for the season.  As for the weather, we learned a new word in French very quickly - orage!

Thus we spent most of the week sheltering from violent thunderstorms in our floating caravan. When we did venture out for a couple of beers, having berthed at a recognised and reasonably busy berthing area, we returned to find that the boat had been burgled in our absence. We hadn't left much of value on the boat but they'd taken a bag of clothes, presumably to carry away the loot, among other things including our toiletry bags. The French police were charming, and even complimented us on our choice of wine. It is only in the movies, they informed us, that policemen don't drink on duty.

The next day, we continued on our way, knowing that at some stage we would have to go into town and make a full statement about the crime. When we arrived in Béziers harbour, a police car was crawling around. They spotted us, waved us in and promptly arrested Dave. At least that's how it must've looked to passers-by. What really happened was that they said they'd be grateful if he would go to the police station with them to fill in some forms and then they would return him to the boat. It saved us a lot of hassle and it was done within an hour.

When we reported the inadequacy of the door lock to Crown Blue Line they responded that if we'd had a stronger lock, the thieves would've just broken the windows to get in. Right then, probably we shouldn't have bothered with a lock at all to prevent that from being damaged?

Add all this lot to the fact that canal-boating can be very strenuous, especially going through seriously big locks with a crew of one thin bloke and a fat woman. (The minimum for a comfortable manoeuvre is three.) It wasn't really what we'd expected.

Despite everything, we would consider this type of holiday again as much of it was very enjoyable. Perhaps next time we could go in convoy with another boat or maybe even with others on a larger boat.

To sum up, it's worth a go but do watch out because there's a lot of dogs in France. And I was not best pleased when handling the boat ropes to discover that Dave had trampled dog pooh into them.


A week's boat hire - normally Saturday to Saturday, but can run from Friday or Monday as well - will set you back anything between £400-odd for a two-berth boat in the low season (early April, late October) and £2,000-plus for an eight-berth monster in the peak season (early July to mid-August).

 

If you'd like to e-mail Kay please do!

 

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Kay McMahon is editor of Britishexpat.com, a site with many stay-at-home fans as well as expats. Even non-Brits can spend a happy hour or so browsing this site. I suggest you start with the 5th box down the right hand side 'English Lessons' - a series of hilarious accounts of teaching English as a Foreign Language in Spain.
Britishexpat.com
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Around Europe by train
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Hotels in Europe
Self-catering in the 2,500 pounds a week for 6 class.  Go on. Find some compatible friends to share. Worth following the link just for the beautiful photos.
Frenchcanalcruising
The top end of the market. 2,000 US dollars a head fully-catered barges and river boats with side trips.
Bargecruises
The proper way to do the Canal du Midi. Compare this with Kay & Dave's experience, and decide whether it's worth 800-1500 dollars for a 4-berth proper canal boat. Then find a crew of 3 or 4 compatible people to share the experience.
Housesforhire
Canal boats for the handicapped (even arthritis can put normal canal boats  out of reach)
Croisieres-handy